Vacation Pix: Chamonix and Annecy

Finally posting photos from the end of our French vacay.  We spent four days or so in Chamonix, one of the birthplaces of mountain climbing.  Joe loves climbing, so this is his mecca.  Here he is in overgrown schoolboy mode, crashing a French field trip to learn about Mont Blanc.

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Chamonix looked like your quintessential European skiing town, except with the addition of a Chanel store.  Every ski town has a Chanel store, right? 

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Why didn't I buy one of these puppies?  Kicking myself now. Click the link below to keep reading!

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One day we took the Aiguille du Midi cable car, Europe's highest cable car. I don't really like heights so I'm glad our gondola looked safer than this one!

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I don't know how these climbers do it.  So intense!  Joe said climbers love Chamonix because it's really challenging, but it's not remote, so you can still go to the town and get a beer at the end of the day.

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Don't worry, I'm not opening that gate for any reason.

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"Open raft?"  No thanks!

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I loved this little birdie and took many, many pictures of him.

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In retrospect, we should've spent one more day in Paris and one less day in Chamonix.  But we kept busy.  One day we hiked on a trail to the Chalet Floria, a little cafe and garden at the end of an hour-long hike.  On our last day, we rented a car and drove to Annecy, a beautiful little town with canals that earned it the nickname "Venice of the Alps."

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How pretty is this lake?  We saw swans everywhere.  They were bigger than your average toddler.

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I achieved my goal of swimming in a mountain lake!  The water was freezing cold and crystal clear.

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Poor Joe was allergic to the town, though.  He couldn't stop sneezing, which must not have been fun. This day trip was the only time we fought on the trip.  It's stereotypical, really.  He was driving the rental car and I was navigating.  Apparently, he didn't think that my method of saying, "Turn here," while we were going through roundabouts then pointing in a vague direction was very effective.  Then we forgot where we parked our rental "econobox" subcompact minivan.  Fun times!  

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The Most Adorable / Affordable Hotel in Chamonix

So when I started researching places to stay during the Chamonix portion of our trip, I thought to myself, "Wouldn't it be cool to find a super cute Design*Sponge-esque hotel that was somehow within my budget?"

Friends, I found it.  It's Le Faucigny in Chamonix. The most design-y ski chalet ever.

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Glowing moose head, where have you been all my life?  I aspire to one day own that. I've already purchased one moose trophy in my lifetime: I bought my friend Roxanne a cardboard moose as a wedding present.  Didn't even know a glowing moose was an option.

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Metal-tipped legs, so hot right now.

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I love European breakfasts.  Nothing petit about this petit déjeuner.  I'm fairly certain they lost money on our morning meals.  We stocked up and didn't eat lunch (very American).  We ate bacon, eggs, croissants, yummy cheese, muesli, coffee, mango juice and more.  So great.

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Here's the view from our room. How spectacular! My room at home looks out over a brick wall.

Paris Picture Post

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I tried to count and photograph all the French bulldogs we saw.  New York Frenchies, you got nothing on the real thing.

I'm going to post more non-puppy Paris pictures behind the jump.  Follow me this way, would you?

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Walking in the Tulleries made me think, "Wow, we can't even grow grass on the Mall, it's just dirt. And the French can achieve this?" I understand the idea that it's the nation's backyard, but it just looks so sad in comparison. We can aim higher.

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Dachshunds this way...

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How weird is this? Same font and everything? It was just a normal clothing store, not Redskins merchandise.

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I tried to get Joe to buy these dropcrotch overalls for men, but no luck.

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Does Rock Hair specialize in mullets?

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I just like this combo, sushi + bagel.

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Joe wanted me to take a picture of the most impressive parallel parking feat he'd ever witnessed.

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We focused more on sightseeing than eating, but I requested that we make a special trip for lunch at Au Passage, a hip restaurant I read about in Bon Appetit.  The article was called "So You're Going to Paris and You Want to Eat Where the Cool Kids Are Eating?"  Yes, yes I do.  Turns out it was also written up in Conde Nast Traveler.  I'm sure when we walked in, they thought "Oh, here comes another Bon Appetit/Conde Nast Traveler reader." Is it that transparent?

No, they were nice to us.  And we had a mind-expanding meal for less than 18 euros a piece.  Their menu is pared down to a few items each day, which I loved as an indecisive, non-French speaker.  And the atmosphere is très Brooklyn.

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Here's the menu for the day: one appetizer, a choice between two entrees, cheese plate and dessert.  We tried to each order everything but our waiter talked us out of that.  It would've been too much of a good thing.  I ordered the fish and Joe ordered an incredible deconstructed steak tartare. 

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Sea salt on ganache with cherries for dessert.  Every lunch should end with this!

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See this lovely display of macaroons?  Yeah, this in a McDonald's.

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Macaroons at all price points...

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We sat on a curb and ate falafel from the legendary L'As du Fallafel.  I love a good six euro meal.

Paris: I'm Thinking About Getting a Vespa

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All spring I've been jonesing for a Vespa.  There's a cocktail at Boundary Road on H Street called "I'm Thinking About Getting a Vespa." Isn't that every urbanite's fantasy?  That's been my rallying cry for awhile.

A few months ago, my friend Andy sent me a photo text of a red Vespa with a custom license plate spelling out my last name.  He texted, "Is this yours?"

No, it wasn't.  But it could be!  Or rather, could it be a sign?  Should I get a Vespa?  The more I thought about it, the more it seemed to make sense (if you ignore the expense and the possibility of serious injury).  I could zoom up hills without breaking a sweat.  I could avoid the weekend 20-minute wait between trains on the Metro.  I could park anywhere.  Most importantly, I could pick out a cool color for my Vespa.

When I visited Andy and Emily in Norfolk, Andy took me for a spin on his Vespa, a sleek silver model.  Here I am, gearing up for the ride:

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OK, maybe a Vespa is not going to make me look cooler.  I look like a bobblehead.

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Looking uneasy in this picture.

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And away we go!

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Emily and Andy's dog Jasper sees us off on our journey.

That's the first time I've ever been on a moped.  What a way to travel.  It didn't seem so dangerous, just fun, but then again I wasn't driving.  There's a scooter shop in Arlington near work, so one lunch hour I invited my coworker Luther to go check it out.  It turned out to be an insurance office attached to a garage, and the guy showed us around for 10 minutes.  I felt bad that I wasn't a serious buyer.  I took their literature though.  Another push towards rationalizing a scooter purchase.

Everyone had mopeds in Paris (see photos above).  Talk about living the dream.  Scooting around Paris, from flea market to bistro.  For a girl with Vespas on the brain, Paris cemented my scooter love.

I told my mom that I wanted a moped.  "No.  You're not doing that," she said.  The answer seemed final.  But I already ride a bike, I said.  Isn't that similar?  "I'll hear a report on the news about a girl in Mount Pleasant on a Vespa who got hit by a bus, and I'll know it will be you," she said.

Paris vs DC Bikeshare: Joe's Adventures in Bikesharing

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I asked Joe to write about Paris Bikeshare vs. DC Bikeshare.  Before he gets to it, I just wanted to share a tip if you decide to try the Vélib’ system when you are in Paris.  I was worried about whether our American credit cards would work in the bikeshare machine.  I tried to research this but it was inconclusive as to whether you need a chip and pin credit card.   So on the advice of Oh Happy Day, I bought my pass online.  I didn't bother with the Navigo pass she mentions, and instead just bought the 7-day pass off the Vélib’ website.  That gave me an ID number, I create a pin code, I then printed out the sheet with that info and carried it in my purse.  When you get to station, head to the computer terminal, hit the language button, enter those codes and select your bike!  Worked like a charm.

I also wanted to add another note about how nice people were - a young guy saw us struggling with the computer and came over to help.  So nice!

And now here's Joe:

Adele was kind enough to invite me to pen a guest post about our adventures in shared bicycling. Many of you know that I’ve been trying to ride my bicycle as much as possible recently. Not only is it nice to get out in the fresh air and burn a few calories, but every trip I take by bike means those miles don’t go on the odometer of the 1996 Honda Civic that was handed down to me by my younger sister (it is the last in a long line of hand me down automobiles that started with a beautiful 1986 Saab 9000 that I bought with money earned by selling some cannily bought Microsoft stock, so it’s not like I’m a complete charity case).

After buying an (expensive) starter bike a few years ago I enjoyed it so much decided I needed a completely unnecessary upgrade. Too many hours perusing what I lovingly refer to as “bike porn,” I settled on my beautiful 2009 Cannondale SuperSix Hi-Mod. Full carbon. SRAM Red group. Helluva bike. Race ready.

My second bike is decidedly more humble. Fenders. Whitewall tires. Did I mention I have to share it with 25,000 of my closest friends? That said, I might derive both more pleasure and utility from the Bikeshare bike. For $75 a year I have access to caches of bikes spread across the city. For no additional fee, I can grab one and sprint off to any neighborhood I can get to in 30 minutes or less. If you hustle, you can get almost anywhere worth visiting. Some of my favorite memories over the past year have been riding to or from a new bar or sandwich shop and just enjoying the sights and sounds of the city with Adele and our friends.

As Adele and I (read: Adele) started planning our recent trip to France, we learned that Paris has a similar system, Velib, which is decidedly more expansive due to what I can only guess are more generous taxpayer subsidies. They did just elect a socialist president, after all.

Knowing that I’m obsessed with the DC version, Adele jumped online and purchased two temporary Velib passes. The French system did not disappoint. The bikes are basically the same. Ours are much easier to dock. Theirs ride a bit faster and have a basket that is infinitely more useful than the stupid half-basket/bungy system here in DC. Their stations are a bit closer together with many more docks per station, but from my observations they have the same problems with the most popular stations emptying out when you really want a bike and being full when you arrive in a hurry.

Paris traffic was a bit intimidating at first, but the network of bike/bus lanes and more or less unused back roads offered what turned out to be a wonderful way to explore the neighborhoods around our apartment. Aside from the occasional inconveniently full or empty station, I really do think bike sharing is the wave of the urban future. One of the main reasons I moved back to DC from Indiana after college was because I pined for a dense urban core that lent itself to walking and public transit. The bikeshare has more or less replaced the bus and the train in my arsenal of transportation options. I can hop on a bike and be almost anywhere in the city much faster and more cheaply than I could get there by car, bus, or train. For free. While getting a bit of exercise.

I have to admit I haven’t researched how much DMV taxpayers have had to put up for the system. I just know that the $75 annual fee is a steal as far as I’m concerned. I’ve also ridden hundreds of miles while my car has sat safely parked and I didn’t burden the roads or the public transit system. A little government-led problem solving has gone a long way. Approximately 340 miles in my case.

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